Update September 12 2020
I have improved my DIY vertical bracket for my Flashpoint 600 strobes when using a remote head. Here is a comparison between my first bracket and my new one. The new one uses a standard 1/4 20 and 3/8″ threaded spigot instead of a bolt. This makes it much more secure in fastening the strobe to the bracket.
My first version uses an M8 bolt so the head of the hex had to be ground down to fit inside the truss clamp opening. The new one uses a 3/8″ 26 thread pitch bolt which does not need to be ground down to fit inside the truss clamp. Less work to modify things is always better. You will have to enlarge the truss clamp hole to accommodate the 3/8″ bolt since it uses a smaller bolt that comes with the unit.
A Flashpoint 600 attached.
Here are the items you will need to build your own.
Clamp Hook Safety Rope Hanging Device,Hang on Truss
Legines Brass Pipe Fitting, Forged 90 Degree Female Elbow, 1/8″ NPT Female x 1/8″
Hard-to-Find Fastener 014973217150 Automotive Studs, 3/8-16 x 3/8-24 x 1-1/2
This is the most critical part. The normal 3/8″ spigot below uses a 16 pitch thread pattern and the brass elbow uses a 24 pitch thread. This allows them to be joined as one.
Manfrotto 119 Female Spigot for 026 1/4-Inch 20 Female and 3/8-Inch Female 31mm Long Adapter
You’re welcome! LOL
Update August 31 2020
Although this is not specifically about my DIY holder I wanted to alert people that Flashpoint has added what I consider to be a vital change to their Pro series 600 strobes. Something as simple as an extra hole in the light stand swivel allows me to mount the strobe PARALLEL to the light stand. This is important to me when I use the remote head (which is most of the time) with the strobe. Although I’m using another DIY mounting system with a truss clamp you can now use a simple super clamp to do the same thing.
Something so simple as adding this hole on the side of the swivel makes it so much more convenient to mount when using the remote head.
My truss clamp DIY mount which is way easier to make then the 90 degree mount. Oh I try to use aluminum spigots so that the mounting screw on the Flashpoint can really bite into the metal to prevent spinning. I use lock washers too.
Mounting my 600 Pro this way prevents it from spinning around the truss clamp.Update May 29 2018
David sent me a note (which is in the comments below) stating that the 8mm nut I specify is not the correct size. So I measured the bolt with my micrometer. I don’t want to disassemble the pin so my suggestion is for you to take your 90 degree brass fitting to any hardware store and measure the threads on one of their nut/bolt measuring stations.
What is that mount you use to place the AD600 on a boom or lightstand when using the H600 remote head?
I had this article in my review of the AD600/xPLOR600 post. But so many people contact me about the self fabricated brackets I use to mount my xPLOR/Godox 600s on lightstands, I decided to copy the article about the brackets here as a separate post. To my knowledge no one makes a bracket that runs parallel with a lightstand so you can mount your strobe on the stand’s column. If you know of one other than what I describe below, please place a comment on this page so others can buy one.
I fabricated the mount I use because I could not find anything with a 90 degree angle that would not spin on a boom no matter how tight I’d tighten it down. My first try was with my trusty Manfrotto Superclamps which are great. But due to the weight/leverage of the AD600 base it just would not stay put enough for my taste. So I decided to use a truss clamp which never spins. But I had to fabricate the mounting…. (oh and thanks for asking if you can buy them from me, but I’m a pro shooter, not a pro fabricator….)
Parts:
- ADJ Products JR-CLAMP Stage
- Anderson Metals Brass Pipe Fitting, Barstock 90 Degree Elbow, 1/4″ x 1/4″ Female Pipe
- Two 8mm bolts. One 10mm long, the second 30mm long not fully threaded
- One 8mm nut
The truss clamp assembled.
The 10mm long bolt goes inside the truss clamp. It is necessary to grind or file down two opposing sides so the head of the bolt will fit in the recessed portion of the clamp and not spin when tightened. The upright bolt is the longer 30mm one that is screwed into the other end of the brass pipe fitting which becomes your light mount. Once you have tightened the bolt into the pipe fitting you will need to cut off the head of the bolt and either grind or file it down. The 8mm nut secures it to the pipe fitting so it does not loosen from the pipe fitting. I notched the stud so the screw from the AD600 would rest in that notch as an extra measure of safety in case the screw from the AD600 loosens.
The truss clamp I use is just right for stand diameters like C stand poles. For smaller diameters I just use some PVC pipe cut in half and filed down so it is not a complete circle. I then used gaff tape to join one side and small pieces of grip tape on the inside to prevent spinning of the PVC on the metal light stand. Works perfectly!
As you can see in this photo the truss clamp works perfectly and does not spin. Because the length of the remote head to the light is about seven feet I still needed an additional counterweight, so I used a Manfrotto 15 pound boom counter weight.
How I use the clamp on a vertical light stand.
One HUGE advantage of my DIY clamp is I can leave it on my on location light stands and they fold as compact as if it was not attached! I leave them on my onlo stands because it’s just so easy to forget things, which I sometimes can do. And BTW all of my onlo stand have an adjustable leg. I seldom if ever encounter flat ground when on location!
Thanks so much for posting this. I just received some of the parts in the mail and have discovered 8mm bolts are not the correct size to fit into the thread of the brass fitting. I just measured it and it’s looking more like 12mm. Is there anyway you could let me know what the correct size of the bolts should be. Thanks!
David I measured the bolt with a micrometer and you may be right. But I need to check for sure. I’m not sure if an 8mm bolt is actually 8mm in diameter. The best thing to do is to take it to any hardware store and measure it on one of their bolt/nut measuring devices. Sorry but I thought I measured it when I wrote the article.
Do you have a link to the item in picture #6? The link above it is to some other random part.
Thanks.
Pete can you tell me specifically which link? I cannot figure out what you mean by picture number 6
On this page, you say:
“Here are the items you will need to build your own.”
And the first link below that is a clamp you call:
“Clamp Hook Safety Rope Hanging Device,Hang on Truss”
But that link goes to an Amazon page that has a completely different part from the one you have pictured.
You have pictures on this page. If you count from the top, the 6th photo on this page is the clamp part you advise getting. But there is no link to where to get it (again, the referencing link is to a different clamp).
Yes Amazon changed that link. I’ve updated it on my site so please refresh your browser and click on the link again. Thanks for alerting me to that change.
Thanks! That’s what I figured had happened. I like the idea that I would be able to leave this clamp on my lightstand and throw it in the bag and not worry about always setting it up and removing it each time I want to collapse it and change spots. Hopefully it will work for me.